Arbutin has one more glucose molecule than hydroquinone in structure, which has better skin affinity and can not only whiten and lighten spots, but also anti-inflammatory and sterilized, and promote wound healing. Arbutin whitening is by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase.
Arbutin whitening mechanism: under the appropriate acid and enzyme environment, it can hydrolyze to release free hydroquinone, which will block the effect of tyrosinase, thereby reducing the synthesis of dopa or dopaquinone, and finally reducing the production of melanin.
Arbutin has a similar mechanism of action to vitamin C. Arbutin is extracted from the leaves of bearberry, which can prevent the production of melanin by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase in the body, thereby reducing the deposition of skin pigment. It also has bactericidal and anti-inflammatory effects while removing freckles.
Both α-Arbutin and β-Arbutin are water-soluble, while the human stratum corneum is composed of 4 – 5 layers of dead cells, which is more conducive to the absorption of fat-soluble components. Therefore, deoxyarbutin came into being, which structurally removes all glycosides on the side chain of glycosides, increases the hydrophobicity of the molecule, and exhibits higher inhibitory tyrosinase activity.
Arbutin is not toxic and irritating to the skin and melanin and has no photosensitivity when the concentration is below 7%, so it can be used during the day or night. When using arbutin during the day, sun protection is required to ensure the normal function of the arbutin and reduce the damage of ultraviolet rays to the skin.